New Cal to Aussieland!

It was a super calm passage from Noumea to Bundaberg. The sailing lasted for the first 14 hours and then the wind died and we started an engine. Technically we didn't have to, but we would have bobbed around in the ocean for days waiting for wind, and we didn't want to do that. Only one engine though as it gave us enough propulsion to arrive in Bundaberg on the 1st of November, our planned arrival date. Also, should we have to motor all the way we had enough diesel to get us there. The lack of wind did make for the flattest sea we've encountered so far though. Given we were in the middle of the ocean with no land in sight for days, a flat sea was enjoyed by us all for a while. After 3 days of motoring we wished for wind - as that's what a sail boat is for after all - and the motoring was becoming a bit monotonous. To our dismay, the wind didn't pick up until the day before we arrived, so we enjoyed sailing the last 150 or so nautical miles.

Hitchhiker..

Our beautiful daughter turned 14 at sea, kinda different way to spend a birthday - hopefully memorable!

We entered the channel into the Bundaberg river and were busily tidying up so we would be ready for border control and biosecurity. As soon as we had docked border control were there to check us in. Their dog came aboard (with his shoes on) and we were asked to get off. Once the dog was done with our cocaine import we sat in the cockpit with about 6 officials. Passports checked, questions answered and we were checked in, only biosecurity to go. The biosecurity seemed far more invasive with the agent checking under every panel and inside every cupboard and cranny! A dead bug collected for examination (the only cupboard P hadn't cleaned out since moving on board) and a couple of spider webs sprayed and we were granted pratique. Only one restriction, we couldn't go further than 3 nautical miles from the port of Bundaberg until we had imported the boat. Having already started the process, we were prepared to stay and enjoy the welcome week that was part of the Down Under Rally.

Our first steps on Australian soil were humbling. We were home. There was the feeling of familiarity, a sense of pride. We had crossed half an ocean to get here, and were pretty pleased with this achievement.

G & H headed into town the day after we arrived, H couldn’t wipe the smile from his face when we wandered into this shop!

The first of our QLD family came to visit a couple of days after we arrived and even though it's been a couple of years between catch ups, it only feels like yesterday we saw each other. Caz and Annie spent the day on the boat before saying goodbye and heading home, already organised to meet us again in a few days. Stewart, Louise and Hannah (previously from Skylark) came on the weekend and stayed with us for a few nights. It would most likely be the last time we catch up for a while as they head home to the UK after 3 years on their boat, which they finalised the sale of in Noumea. Can only imagine how they'll feel stepping onto home soil.

The rally welcome week started on Monday with goodie bags and a cocktail evening at the local restaurant, Baltimores. The food was excellent and a great night was had by all, with music and dancing and frivolity.

The following day was Melbourne Cup day and we all went off in buses to the local hotel to watch the race and also attend a seminar on cruising the east coast, run by the Down Under Rally. As the afternoon wore on a storm was observed in the distance, with the most amazing lightening display we'd ever seen. G went back to check on the boat, and satisfied she was securely tied to the dock, returned to the hotel for dinner.

What transpired at the marina after G left was nothing short of a freak event. The wind picked up to gusts of nearly 70 knots (130km/h) and at the peak of the storm (known by meteorologists as a supercell) a catamaran broke away from the dock and hit another cat that was docked downwind from her, causing it to also break its dock lines. Unfortunately the cat that was hit broadsided one of the dock fingers and punched a hole in their starboard hull right at the waterline. A terrifying time for the owners at the height of the storm with water pouring in.

Once the storm front had passed, some locals helped pull the cat up the beach as far as possible and the owners stayed most of the night keeping an eye on their beloved vessel.

There were other boats damaged in the storm and sadly for us Be and Be was one of them. She had been hit on the stern by one of the other boats and scraped all down the port side. The pushpit was totally mangled and the pouring rain had gotten into the aft cabin. G worked busily to clean up and stop any further water from getting in and was up early the next day assessing the extent of the damage. Fortunately, all people involved were safe, and that's the most important outcome. We had Ray, a local surveyor, come to have a chat about Be and Be as G wanted to make sure she was seaworthy so we could continue our journey south. Satisfied that she was bruised but not broken, G bogged up her holes so we would be ready to go when the weather allowed.

Early Thursday morning we picked up our hire car and went to the Hinkler Hall of Aviation in Bundaberg. It was all about Bert Hinkler, a Bundaberg local who set records in the early 1900's, one being that he was the first person to fly from Sydney to Bundaberg non-stop. We all enjoyed the interactive displays, and even got to simulate a flight. Some of us did better than others. Put it this way, P is not going to be a pilot anytime soon!

Thursday night saw us, Caz and Annie visiting Mon Repo beach to hopefully watch the turtles laying their eggs for the season. The time passed learning some turtle facts and soon it was 2200hrs. H and J grew tired waiting so fell asleep, and soon as they did, the rangers called us to say there was a turtle on the beach. We walked down in the pitch black, following along the beach until we saw the tracks. It was a false alarm, she had not found a suitable place to lay, so had gone back out to sea. A bit deflated and tired we returned to the information centre. Half an hour later the ranger called us again. The group of 50 or so people tried to quietly walk along the beach, hoping not to scare off the turtle. Apparently the turtle can see quite well and if she senses any threat will hurry back to the safety of the ocean. But once she starts to lay the eggs, she is committed and won't leave until she's done. The rangers guided us all to stand behind the large loggerhead turtle so we wouldn't disturb her and we watched as it took about 20 mins to lay her eggs.

Then she covered them with the sand she had removed when digging the hole and made her way down the beach and out to sea. The females only lay every 4-5 years and will lay about 4 clutches on average in a season. They mate with several different males and each clutch of eggs can have many fathers. Another interesting fact is that once she's laid the eggs, she will not return to rear the hatchlings, they will probably never see each other again. Once our turtle had left we were informed that the eggs needed to be moved to a safer place, above the high tide mark. If not moved the eggs would get flooded and all may be killed. So it would be up to us, should we choose to stay, to help transport the 155 eggs to a new hole.

Most left, however E and J were most excited and begged us to stay, so we waited as the ranger counted all the eggs and then the much smaller group helped carry the eggs to their safer nest. The eggs looked and felt a little like soft ping pong balls. Once the eggs were all moved we returned to the centre and got ourselves a certificate. P had been on the very same beach some 30 years earlier as a child watching the turtles so it was pretty amazing to be doing it with S, E, H and J! By the time we got back to the boat and into bed it was 3am, what a huge night! After a short sleep, we were up by 8am to go to Childers while we had a hire car. We met Caz at the entrance to Snakes Down Under, a family fun park with snakes, crocs, koalas, kangaroos, lizards and an emu.

The aim was to be there for the first presentation at 10am, hence the early start. It's ok, we can sleep in tomorrow! The park, while small is really well run, and you venture from guided talk to guided talk to make the most of the day. The non venomous snakes were first, after which we all go to hold a python. The kids all loved it, but Aunty Caz, Annie and P didn't seem as enthusiastic!

Next was a talk about koalas, a visit to the kangaroo and emu enclosure where the kids all followed the animals around trying to feed them. They all persisted and it paid off, J even got to pat the emu while it ate out of his hand.

S about to punch out the emu.. Stalker

Up next the venomous snakes show, which we all watched with nervous anticipation as the handler showed us the 5 most venomous species of snake in the world. Lucky the top 5 are all native to Australia, yay! We thought she was very brave to handle all those snakes and were relieved when she put hem back in their bags to be transported back to their enclosures. Next we watched the croc show, then checked out all the lizards and other snakes. There was a massive boa constrictor which the kids were entertained by, as it slid up its glass enclosure, checking them out.

Hmm.. School lesson ; )

After the Snakes park we went in to Childers and stopped at the old movie theatre. It is being restored by a local family and they have a lovely cafe. We all enjoyed some delicious locally made ice cream while we sat in the theatre.

After visiting Annie and Caz's houses we returned to Be and Be for an early night.

Slipped in a quick trip to the brewery

Hangin..

The rest of the weekend went by, enjoying mud crab races and the Done and Dusted party, all part of the Rally. The Burnett Heads hotel had provided a great venue for many of the rally events, not to mention the amazing work of Geoff and his team at Bundaberg Marina, also John and Leanne who run the rally.

H along with Ollie from Kena thoroughly enjoyed a bit of a dance at the last party!

The weather was now looking more suitable for us to leave, so we spent a couple of days preparing, provisioning, cleaning and washing so we would be ready to go. Caz and Annie came over one last time and had dinner and stayed for a sleepover. The next morning we waved Annie off as she headed to work early, said goodbye to our friends Karen and Dave from Amokura, and then Caz waved us goodbye as she threw off our dock-lines as we headed back out into Harvey Bay, bound for the Wide Bay Bar at the bottom of Fraser Island. Time to make our way South.